Accepting the challenges and savoring the journey of the unPAved Big Lick 200

 

unPAved Big Lick 200

“Life is about accepting the challenges along the way, choosing to keep moving forward, and savoring the journey.” - Roy T. Bennet.  The Big Lick 200; a journey filled struggles and uncertainty along with fun and enjoyment.

What: 200 miles of raw gravel, double track, and rural roads within the Susquehanna River Valley of North-central PA.  An invite only event as part of the unPAved cycling weekend; unPAved being a weekend of gravel bike riding and racing of various distances along with a festival and party atmosphere.

Organizer: GRO Races

Where: Lewisburg, PA

When: October 6-8, 2023

The current time is around 9pm. I’ve been on the bike since 3am.  There are only about 40 miles to go, 160 already done but things are not boding well for me.  I’ve been out way longer than expected and still have many more hours to go. The temperatures have plummeted to near freezing.  Back pain is making riding a challenge.  Mentally and physically I have hit a low point.  After a long down hill hypothermia is setting in and I’ve decided to rest for a bit to re-evaluate my life’s decisions. Why?  What the f’ am I doing?  Am I having fun? I am almost ready to call it quits. I call my husband Joël who is volunteering at the aid station I will be coming to next stating I may need extraction and be ready for me.  A message left on the race coordinators phone with the same info is left so ne knows what is potentially going to happen.  I wrap myself in my emergency space blanket and use handwarmers for added warmth. I continue contemplating why am I here by myself sitting on the ground in a random ATV parking lot in the middle of Bald Eagle State Forest late on a Sunday night?  Maybe it was getting warm, maybe resting for a bit, maybe I just need to have a pitty-party for myself to get it all out…for then it was decided to suck it up, put on my big girl panties and get moving.  I stuffed the emergency space blanket and handwarmers under my other clothing layers for added warmth and started walking.

How did I get to this point and how did it end….

First a little about the GRO Racing event known as unPAved.  The riding occurring on Sunday, the adventures of event weekend actually started on Friday. unPAved is not just about the riding, it’s about the atmosphere.  It’s a festival style weekend where hanging out with friends and family and experiencing what Lewisburg has to offer is highlighted just as much as the cycling.  Joël and I arrived Friday night taking part in the pub crawl throughout Lewisburg and attended the SRAM game night at Bull Run Tavern. Maybe I should blame Dave for my slow riding in the Big Lick, it was my forced participation in the roller races at Bull Run that burned me out pre-event…OK, only kidding but worth a try.  After a lazy Saturday morning of van camping in the event provided Fairgrounds parking area for campers/vans/RVs it was time to head over to the Lewisburg Fall Festival for registration and checking out what the quaint and historic town has to offer.  At registration it was time to socialize, catching up with friends and bike industry colleagues.  After registration Joël and I  headed over to the old fashioned movie theater in Lewisburg for a race-organized viewing of movie shorts and talks about gravel racing.  The pre-race day concluded with dinner with friends at a local Italian restaurant. It was then in bed at 8:30pm for a 2:30am wake-up.  Note:  everything involving unPAved in Lewisburg is easily accessible by bike and mostly via the bike path.

But still despite the aforementioned awesomeness of unPAved, after reading my event summary you may feel why the f’ ride this?  Because this event gets the highest accolades. I've done a ton of crazy races all over North America, Europe, and the Caribbean; many have disappointed, unPAved certainly will not.  Come for the event, not just the riding.  Ride the 50, 90, 120 miler. My personal input is the race organizers were helpful, friendly, and were there truly for the racers.  Event weekend was fun and welcoming.  Race swag top notch. Food, drinks, and an after party for all racers. Camping at the race site with hot showers post even compliments of the Miller Center.  So many friends, both new and old, out there before, during, and after the race to connect with.  All the rider amenities were there as you will learn as you read; this event is all about the riders. The organizers and team behind this event get a 10 out of 10 for what they put on.

Now back to my story.  The wake-up alarm sounded.  Having clothing in a pile for easy application and all gear and equipment on my Liv Devote prior to sleep it was a quick morning routine and just a few minutes ride from the Fairgrounds to the start.  Since Joël needed to be up early for volunteer duty, he accompanied me during these early morning hours. No fanfare, no cheers or starting bells. The way the 200 mile event worked was a “choose your own adventure” format.  Race organizers wanted everyone to be finished my 9pm on Sunday (and to be an official finisher this had to be adhered too), thus riders could start anytime Saturday night or Sunday morning which they felt appropriate to be able to cross the finish line by 9pm.  3am start gave me 18 hours…based on my previous 200 and 300 mile events with similar elevation this was ample time.  Start time temperatures were around 50 degrees and dry; I was perfectly dressed with layers to take off later if needed. I had enough food for 20+ hours of riding and knew I could fill bottles at aid stations or from springs and creeks.  I had a few extra layers and warmer clothes in my Ortlieb Bag along with some emergency cold weather supplies if the weather changed, especially at elevation. My Lupine light was set at 1000 lumen and with the extra battery I had packed lighting for 20ish hours as not a concern.  As I took my first pedal stroke I knew I would be back at the start/finish line at the Miller Center later that evening.  Oh how things got complicated.

Please note: my recollection of the course may not be spot on for distance and when and where things happen. Moth Man and Sasquatch may have stolen some of my memory while out there but what you are about to get is the general scheme of things…

Starting out, the first hour or so of riding for the Big Lick was rail trail and then gentle rolling rural farm roads.  So many cute cows just chilling in the fields to pass by. The course then turned, as the locals call it “north of 80”; Interstate 80. The real riding then started.  The climbs are long and the elevation intense and much of the riding is chunky gravel roads and double track. Note worthy riding was Mile Run Road, Fourth Gap Trail and then the climb back up over the mountain on Walters Road. I enjoyed all of these, those that know me understand my love of gnarly trails, but wow did these technical descents and climbs slow me down and had me wondering if my average speed would be enough to make the cut-offs and complete the course in the time allowed.

I was enjoying the trails, conserving energy for the miles ahead, and taking in all the ride had to offer.  After crossing back under 80 there was some meandering through small towns, parks and forest land. The sun had risen and I was overall feeling good about the ride thus far.  Somewhere during these miles my husband Joël met me on the course for some cheering and motivation and our dog Clifford joined me for a few pedal strokes.  Bottle fill via springs and nutrition from what I had packed was right on. I was watching my average speed and the time of day and was taking note I was going slower than anticipated, but I also knew once I met-up with the 120 and 90 mile riders the course became more reasonable so was a little worried but not yet distraught about the 9pm finish requirement.

More miles of gravel and the course was now weaving towards one of my favorite mountain biking areas RB Winter State Park.  Following my Garmin Edge 1040 Solar turn-by-turn directions I noticed a turn was missed. But what turn? I was on a straight gravel road. Back track just a bit and much to my surprise I missed the turn onto Black Gap Trail. For those that have ridden in Bald Eagle for Trans-sylvania Epic the bottom half of Black Gap was an Enduro stage.  I love Black Gap on my full suspension Liv Pique and I love it as part of a mountain bike race but I was hesitant about it on a gravel bike. Once again; remember I was out there all alone, only ten others were riding the Big Lick.  Spotty cell phone coverage made for little to no contact with others; if an emergency occurred I would have to depend on my Spot Tracker to help alert race officials to my problem.  Thus I rode slowly, cautiously, and I walked a lot.  I mean a lot.  I didn’t want to break myself or my bike. I figured it was better to go slow then to have to be pulled from the course due to an unfixable issue. But wow did it slow down my average speed. By the end of the approximately five miles of single track the course then turned onto gravel roads again and dropped down into the area of RB Winter State Park.

Being back on gravel gave me a burst of energy and was revived both mentally and physically. I met up with other Big Lick riders, the top finishing men Stewart, Jesse, and Matt who started after me were catching and passing me. But we all rode together for a bit, talked, and compared race notes. It was noted that we should be coming up to the RB Winter aid station soon…or at least we though. Little did all of us know we had to leave the course and ride down into the state park for the aid stop. Well…all of us missed that one.  Made for a creek stop for a water bottle fill for me later.  I was also looking forward to some real food at the aid, which I missed and had to continue on eating just Honey Stinger items and Nature’s Bakery bars.

More gravel roads, more climbs and descents followed.  The Big Lick intersected the other race courses so friendly faces and cheers helped raise the motivation level.  What seemed like hours passed, and maybe it was, and finally an aid station appeared like an oasis in the distance.

The Ranch was it’s name and being friendly and helpful along with calorie and hydration filling was it’s name. There was a 1:30pm cut off for this point, and I rolled in right around that time. It was something like mile 102 for me and I was over 10 hours in.  A good friend Wags was helping at this aid, a big hug from him brought out some emotion in me and I confided in Wags that I was uncertain about the ride ahead. At this point I was looking at a 22+ hour finish and I did not even know if I would be allowed to go on; this would put me past the 9pm cut off and I would be considered an unofficial entrant.  The aid station volunteers rallied for me; the entire crew cheered for me, gave me hugs, told me I could do it, filled me with food and water. Wow, thanks for that everyone.  So off I pedaled, just under 100 miles to go.

The next part of the course sped right along because I knew my next stop was Poe Paddy aid which had the people I was looking forward to seeing all day, Becky and John. As an added boost, EMT Matt and course designer Brett were at this aid.  Many hugs and smiles from John and Becky boosted my morale along with the fact they fed and hydrated me and replenished my snacks for later.  Discussion with Brett ensured as I left the aid stop; I knew I was going to be out there way longer than expected but I was prepared and ready. I rolled out of the Poe Paddy aid well before the 3:30pm cut off being told I had flat rail trail and rolling gravel roads ahead of me…well, the 120 riders did but us Big Lick riders did not.  Thinking I was in for some easy-ish pedaling, I was feeling strong again, and my average speed was actually increasing; I was starting to rally.  Then came a slap in the face. Milheim-Seigler Pike a rocky “road” up the mountain for the next few miles.  My mountain bike skills came in handy and I was embracing the challenging and the fun techy ride; however there was still quite a slew of walking when the going was really rocky. So much for moving a long a little faster. Oh well, any movement forward is movement in the right direction.

After that it was time for gravel roads and rural roads that were both rolling and decent climbs and descents. Sunset came and went and it was time to turn lights on. The temperatures started dropping and dropping quickly; more than expected and the miles of descending in the cold dark forest created moments of utter cold for me; seizing up my back and giving me a weird brain-freeze effect. Now we get to where this story started.  My body is taxed, I am tired, one long downhill that I actually had to slow down on due to the cold had me feeling spent.  I’ve plopped myself down on the ground at an ATV parking lot just before the start of Henstep Trail. 

Now….here we are returning to the opening paragraph of this blog, this is where we are in this story.  I’ve decided to start walking maybe still contemplating pulling out and along comes fellow rider Cass approaching from behind.  I am so happy to see someone else!  What a lift to my spirits this is!  Cass and I start riding together and the friendly conversation helps me forget about the miserable moments I just had. Then another wonderful thing, Joël and Clifford appear walking on Henstep.  Joël was going backwards on the course to find me; he informs Cass and I that the van is at the end of Henstep.  Henstep is a mountain bikers dream…rocky, gnarly, and huge muddy puddles going on for miles and miles…but I will admit challenging on a gravel bike after 16ish hours of riding.  Slow riding and walking ensues.  Cass and I continue together for a bit, but then my technical skills have me pulling ahead; I inform Cass I am hightailing it to the van.  At the vehicle I refuel with water and snacks along with leaving a jug of water and snacks for Cass.  Riding with a new friend, seeing my husband and dog, and getting food and water in my belly has rejuvenated me. I got this!

From here on out the urge to get to the end takes over and luckily the course is gently rolling and then primarily all flat including rail trail to the finish.  I put what little power and energy I have remaining into pedaling strong and motor along to Lewisburg.  Passing by the Rusty Rail I wonder what is was like to be there Sunday evening the day prior when it was a huge beer-drinking party. It’s currently something like 2am, all those party-goers are sleeping. No beer stop for me, too bad.  As I finally pull into the Miller Center to complete my ride I am met with cheers from Joël, some of Cass’s friends are there, and Clifford trots along with me over the line.  The finish arch is gone, the post-race after party is done, the photographers and race announcers are all in bed.  It’s just me and the bike and a few sleep-deprived loved ones out there to help see it through. Rather anti-climatic but it makes the accomplishment no less special.  Almost 25 hours out there. Technically I am not even an official finisher; I missed the official cut-off.  Listed as a DNF or not, I made it to the line.  I gather up my finishers swag, food, woopie pies, and beer which I SO THANK the race organizers for leaving for those of us that finished late, hang around to cheer Cass across the line, and then the rest is a blur. Shower, eat, and sleep I believe is what happened.

Fun fact: animal sightings while on course: turkey, whitetail deer, numerous cows and horses in rural areas, cats (one that only had one eye, creepy to see at night), skunk, raccoon, owls, birds, and a black bear.

While typing this blog well over a week post finishing, BTW with a Rusty Rail Banana Seat Hefeweizen in hand, I still feel the pain of disappointment but also overcome with accomplishment.  This event was tough and challenging; along with beautiful and fun.  When I stood on the start line of the Big Lick 200 I anticipated an 18 hour finish; based on times for previous 200 mile events.  This was going to be my first self-supported event which I was riding all on my own; I was beaming with confidence and touted to others I would be strong, I would not need help, I would make it to the end.  My disappointment comes from a finish time almost seven hours longer from expected and from a moment of indiscretion where I though I would need help, where I even called for potential pick-up.  As I go back over the event I am still not sure why my time was so much slower.  I’ve ridden 200 miles of gravel with the same elevation in significantly less the 18 hours.  In hindsight I feel it was a combination of many factors. The technical terrain and the elevation making for slow going. The cold temperatures causing me to take time to often readjust and change clothes and slowing me down due to discomfort; cold to me is like to Kryptonite to Super Man, is just sucks my power.  Lingering back pain that has plagued me all year was flaring up.  But then as I mull over all these negative throughs I think of the almost 50% did not finish rate, at the fact so many scratched, and I think that in my moment of uncertainty I was able to pull myself together, work through the difficulties, and get to the finish line. All in all an accomplishment that others could not attest to.  Sure, the Big Lick was not what I had hoped for but it was a well earned 200 miles of pedaling. 

Side note:  I just received my Crank Therapy clock in the mail, thanks to all at unPAved for the awesome awards! Just another reason this event is so super spectacular; mailed personal awards.

- Jess


 

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